Moldova is a country that often fl ies under the radar, but for wine lovers, it is a hidden paradise. Just outside the capital city of Chisinau lie two of the most extraordinary wine cellars on the planet: Cricova and Milestii Mici. While both offer underground tours and tastings, they are distinct experiences. If you are planning a wine tour in Moldova, here is exactly what you can expect from these two titans of Moldovan winemaking.
The Underground World of Cricova: The “National Treasure”
Often referred to as an “underground wine city,” Cricova is the more famous and polished of the two. Located roughly 14 km north of Chisinau, this facility is carved into limestone tunnels that date back to the 15th century, stretching over 120 kilometers .
The Tour Experience:
Upon arrival, your tour will likely begin with a ride in an electric train or golf cart. You will navigate “streets” named after grape varieties like Cabernet, Pinot, and Feteasca . The tour is highly structured and led by professional guides. You can expect to stop at several key areas: the Wine Maturation Section (where oak barrels line the walls), the Classic Sparkling Wine Production area (Cricova is famous for its Champagne-method sparklers), and the National Collection . This collection is a museum of encyclopedic value, holding rare bottles, including those belonging to historical fi gures like Yuri Gagarin and various world leaders .
The Tasting:
Cricova offers a polished, “showroom” feel. A standard tour package usually includes a tasting of four wines and one sparkling wine, often served with simple snacks like biscuits, nuts, and water . The atmosphere in their tasting halls is elegant and grand, focusing on the prestige of the winery. If you opt for premium packages, you can upgrade to full meals in their “Kingdom of Wine” complex .
The Record-Breaking Depths of Milestii Mici: The “Golden Collection”
If Cricova is the elegant palace, Milestii Mici is the rugged, breathtaking labyrinth. This winery holds the Guinness World Record for the largest wine collection in the world . With over 200 kilometers of tunnels (though only about 55-60 km are actively used) and more than 1.5 to 2 million bottles, the scale here is staggering .
The Tour Experience:
While Cricova feels like a city, Milestii Mici feels like a highway system. You will also traverse the tunnels by electric vehicle, but the sensation is vastly different. The tunnels are wider, and the air is heavy with the humidity and aroma of aging wine. The highlight here is the “Golden Collection”—rows upon rows of rare, vintage wines stored in alcoves carved into the limestone . The atmosphere is less polished but feels more authentic and awe-inspiring due to the sheer volume of bottles.
The Tasting:
Milestii Mici leans into the rustic, hearty side of Moldovan hospitality. A typical tasting package usually includes three wines (a dry white, a dry red, and a vintage dessert wine) . However, the food pairing is generally more substantial than at Cricova. Expect a platter of local delicacies including prosciutto crudo, salami, carpaccio, breadsticks, nuts, and prunes . Furthermore, most tour packages include a gift—usually a bottle of their “Univers” wine to take home .
Practical Expectations for Your Visit
Regardless of which you visit, or if you do both in one day, here are the logistical constants to prepare for:
- Temperature & Dress: You will be going deep underground (up to 80-85 meters) . The temperature remains a constant 12–14°C (54–57°F) year-round. Even in the summer, you will need a jacket or a warm sweater .
- Transportation: Both wineries are about 20-30 minutes from Chisinau. Most organized tours include hotel pickup and drop-off. If you go independently, taxis or marshrutkas (minibuses) are available, but reservations are generally required for tours .
- Movement: You will cover a lot of ground. Expect to ride in electric golf carts or small trains for the duration of the underground portion. This means the tours are accessible to most fi tness levels, though some tunnels may be damp.
- Reservations: It is not strictly mandatory to book weeks in advance, but showing up without a reservation is risky, especially on weekends. Booking at least a day or two ahead is highly recommended to secure an English-speaking guide .
Which One is Right for You?
If you have time, the perfect Moldovan wine day includes visiting both. They are complementary experiences. However, if you must choose one:
- Choose Cricova if you want a polished, historical, and elegant experience, particularly if you love sparkling wine .
- Choose Milestii Mici if you want to stand in the Guinness Book of Records and witness the largest volume of wine ever stored in one place, enjoying a heartier, more rustic tasting .
